The best side of Ranch 616 is out; that is, have a “Ranch Water” on its massive, seating-generous patio. When the weather’s cooperating (even when it isn’t), this is one of those unbeatable Austin evenings, and the copious amounts of tequila (tempered by lime and Topo Chico) in those refreshing drinks will make you an even bigger believer. Inside, it’s all Austinatious kitsch—just ask the javelina with the giant eyeball in its mouth. It’s hard to find a table some nights amid the 1950s dinette sets on the grubby linoleum floor; the dressed-down weirdness draws quite a crowd.

The food suits the feel—a casually executed, dated take on Southwestern fare. Elements of many dishes are good, namely its run-of-the-mill sauces, like Green Goddess and Thousand Island. Calamari’s crisp and not rubbery, but fried oysters tend to arrive mushy. Frogs’ legs are fishy and chewy, outshined utterly by the blameless poblano mashed potatoes that come underneath it (and nearly every other dish). Bacon-wrapped shrimp with Serrano jack cheese somehow tastes like none of those things. Where most places seem to excel at small plates but lose steam with the mains, this place does the opposite; sugar-cured quail is delicious with its spicy beef picadillo stuffing. Beef tenderloin is well seasoned, if often overcooked—and those mashed potatoes make up for it.

The wine list is a pleasant surprise, particularly savvy among the whites; also, many bottles are in the under-$40 range. And cocktails are strong—which helps edify any meal.