Tacos And Tequila feels more postmodern-Scandinavian than Southwestern, with a sterile-white open kitchen; salvaged rebar fashioned into an industrial-chic cage over the bar; and the abstract fluttering of films against the wall. The shortened moniker, TNT, is appropriate, considering the noise—not just from the bustling happy hour crowd, but from the menus, on which an assertive font screams a dizzying array of combination choices and upcharging fine print.

Vegetarian dishes are best: black bean and sweet corn pie is delicious, and “seasonal vegetables” really are—terrific grilled asparagus, eggplant, and goat cheese with a little cilantro cream. A non-veg “perfect” tortilla soup is very nearly that, thanks in part to a salty depth and limey freshness. Aside from these, dishes suffer from a glut of ingredients with uniform sweetness: pickled onions and roasted coriander and cumin with corn-crusted chicken? Sweet. Chile-glazed steak with “onion rajas” and jalapeño relish? Sweet. Red chile salmon with a jicama slaw and mango relish? Obviously sweet, but also lake-bottom-fishy.

TNT’s house margarita uses fresh lime juice and agave nectar, but too much of the latter; the frozen versions are super strong. Tequila connoisseurs will appreciate the outstanding selection and prices, although whenever we order an añejo neat, there are puzzled looks and giant pours that suggest the staff is unaccustomed to a clientele that’s really interested in the tequila. That, more than anything else, speaks volumes.