For 35 years, Fonda San Miguel has been the grande dame of Mexican dining. She has elegant lines in the style of a tiled Spanish mission, a deep-orange warmth, and a collection of important Mexican art; her airy, leafy atrium evokes a colonial courtyard. In this area, you won’t even need a reservation and can usually get a table. We’d come just for the superb margaritas and some antojitos (the wine list has a few abundantly worthy surprises on it). If you’re having the whole shebang—worth it just for the sweet corn pudding—look to pescado tikin xik with achiote, masterful chiles rellenos, and a terrific mole that’s deep and subtle while more chocolaty than most.