La Condesa is a two-story visual orgasm; the modern-high-concept genre at its best. A waterfall of white mesh greets front-door traffic; luxuriant tropical plants tower over tables of naked wood and absorb sound; lighting fixtures are chic and warm. Two upstairs bar areas, one inside and one outside (Malverde, subject to its own hours), also integrate nature and metropolis in a setting that is knock-out sexy without resorting to cheeseball overexertion.

We Mezcal fiends are thrilled to have about ten to choose from here (Del Maguey being the best). Creative cocktails and margaritas are a little on the sweet side, but employ homemade bitters, infused rock salts, and an impressive choice of tequilas.

The menu, like the Mexico City neighborhood for which the restaurant is named, is a melting pot of mestizo techniques and regional ingredients, dosed with modern food trends. The results can be brilliant, as in carnitas de panza, which pair ideally fat-balanced pork belly with smoky chile sauce and an ingenious side of roasted jicama and bacon. Silver-dollar-sized tostadas feature delightfully vinegary (if a touch too oily) octopus. Chile relleno is hearty and nutty with just a whisper of heat. Make a point of sharing unctuous, luxurious bone-marrow taquitos. Meats and fish are cooked expertly.

Brunch features some of the city’s finest pozole. Even La Condesa’s legendarily bad service can’t bring it down.