If it weren’t for its hideous location and unstylish concrete-and-asphalt exterior, Azul Tequila would be a terrific happy hour spot. It’s got one of the best tequila selections in town, avocado and chipotle margaritas to rival Curra’s, and live “world music.” The colorful but bland interior full of flatscreen TVs notwithstanding, crowds are better served by the food here than at the usual haunts. Most of the “Platos del Interior” are worth trying. Spicy enchiladas pipián in a rich pumpkin-seed sauce have an unusually strong, nutty flavor that has its okay days and its amazing ones. Pozole freaks must try this complex and super-soothing one. Our favorite dish is the chile relleno en crema, filled with savory shredded pork, almonds, tomatoes, onions, and raisins. It’s mellower than usual, and its creamy sauce has a gently restrained sweetness. The kitchen’s one weakness seems to lie in all things bean—both the refried and charro are as dreary as the parking lot outside on a rainy day. Their new street-food venture on South Lamar, Papalote, is even better, but limited and not as liquor- or group-friendly.

A signed photo by the door attests to the fact that the Dixie Chicks, at least, know good Mexican when they taste it.