Hudson’s diners can brag that they’ve tasted rattlesnake (even if its pistachio-crust preparation renders it more like falafel, and the tomatoey-smoky-spicy sauce dominates any unique snake flavor). The place oozes old-school, old-money Texas from its cozy, colorful old house near Lake Travis—the patio, with its little white lights, has that rich country wedding-tent feel.

It’s difficult not to have a good time here, but much of the con-fusiony food falls short of its skyrocketing price. A $19 spinach salad with “hot pig vinaigrette” is merely a competent spinach salad with hot bacon dressing. Winking colloquialisms like “served under a smokin’ dome” don’t ease the sting of paying $49 for a serviceable Prime beef tenderloin topped with one huge, ultimately pointless garlicky shrimp. A “really expensive seafood martini” with tough lobster, king crab, shrimp, mango, and passion-fruit vinaigrette is too sweet and incoherent—and spectacularly overpriced at $26. (At least they concede that last point.)

On the other hand, “Hudson’s Mixed Grill” is a canonical dish of venison, rabbit tenders, spicy sausage, achiote-marinated buffalo, and sensational cilantro-glazed quail. Hot, crunchy ruby trout in mango-jalapeño aïoli is another righteous Southwestern fusion.

Thankfully, several dishes are available as half orders. Uninspired steakhouse wines are marked up beyond conscientiousness, and a paired tasting menu can run you about $200. Good news, if you’re looking for bragging rights.