Z’Tejas is one of those Austin-born places that people love and protect, despite having become what Austinites detest most: a nationwide chain. The popular original branch is in a lovely re-outfitted Victorian house on Sixth Street, but the Arboretum’s a more impressive space, balanced on stilts overlooking the hills.

The Southwestern flavors here are not subtle; they speak loudly and clearly, beginning with spectacular cornbread delivered in a hot pan straight out of the oven. Chile con queso is deeply flavored and spiked with sausage, one of the best in the genre. Don’t be deceived by the menu’s insinuation that the queso is only available as part of a pricey platter with guacamole and pico de gallo: secretly, you can (and should) order it on its own. Chiles rellenos vary: during the Hatch chile festival, and at the Arboretum, it has superbly crispy batter, spicy salsa, and flavorful cheese. But downtown, an unbuttered, smoked-chicken version is less convincing. Santa Fe chicken enchiladas have a direct red heat. Brunch is successful and popular, whether you order the obligatory migas or the “breakfast enchiladas” topped with eggs.

Do come for a lively happy hour. Margaritas are nearly flawless and there’s a good range of tequilas; other drinks are of the fruity-sticky-vodka variety, like at any chain. Stick to the spicy, the cheesy, and the agave.