When it first opened, Quattro Gatti garnered some well-earned buzz about its spectacularly true-to-form Neapolitan pizza. We had some unfortunate experiences with the rest of the menu, but we’re happy to report that it’s improved substantially. The restaurant doesn’t need to try much at all; just blocks away are two Italian-American joints that enjoy a brand of undeserved popularity that only a mediocre downtown restaurant can. So we appreciate Quattro Gatti’s authenticity, even if the décor caters more to the American idea of warm, gold-tinted Italy. It’s cozy, but slightly generic in an upscale way.

Also slightly generic is a too-comprehensive wine list whose strange New Zealand and California proclivities you must navigate in order to find the good and well-priced Italian bottles.

The food menu’s weaknesses are less obvious. Pizza won’t disappoint. A simple margherita gets a good crust flavor and texture, if not those big black bubbles; the sauce is just right, the mozzarella’s decent, and the little bit of sogginess is within the acceptable range. Panini at lunch are also strong, made from what amounts to folded-over pizza crust. We especially love the juicy, fennelly sausage. Most of the primi pasta dishes are safe, like a simple spaghetti al pomodoro, a dish that depends more on quality ingredients and careful technique than creamy, meaty fireworks. For those, hit up the glorified Olive Gardens down the street.