Asti has been a neighborhood go-to for date-night modern Italian for more than half a decade. As our second edition went to press, it was firing on all cylinders; then there seemed to be a downspell as, perhaps, turnover in the kitchen kept things inconsistent. (Keep in mind that when we say Asti went through a downspell, it was still one of the best Italian restaurants in town.) But now—like its sibling Fino, with which it shares an executive chef—Asti’s future looks more promising than ever. Recently, we’ve experienced some specials here that have been unlike anything else we’ve ever enjoyed at Asti, due in part, we suppose, to a chef de cuisine from San Francisco’s acclaimed Campanian restaurant A16.

Geography whizzes might take note that Campania is a fair distance south of Asti, but there isn’t really a strict regional focus here, anyway; the brief menu is diverse in price and size and ventures up and down the Boot. On a recent visit, a special of tomato-braised meatballs was succulent and silky, not as reliant on bread crumbs for filler as the lunchtime spaghetti and meatballs here. Even better was a masterful Roman-style fried chicken, the coating crisp and delicate, with the meat inside slick and tender. Hot cherry peppers energized the whole dish into a sensational, mouth-pleasing party. Hand-formed pansotti, pyramid-shaped ravioli pouches filled with, in this case, tender braised short rib, floated in an ambrosia of parmesan broth, truffle oil, and scallions. We still dream about it.

The regular menu, which only changes somewhat with the seasons, is less about shock and awe than impressive feats of balance; each element is distinct but rarely wrestles attention away from the others. A modest-sized tomato, basil, and mozzarella pie has a crisp, delicate semolina crust—a standard that eludes most other “authentic” pizzas in town—and it works beautifully as an intermezzo for the table. Pastas are made in-house and usually cooked to an ideal al dente.

The wine list, which features a respectable half-bottle selection, is among the more well chosen and creative in town. For dessert, a Vin Santo (served with the traditional biscotti) is a sweet complement to a holy trinity of ricotta brûlée with brandied cranberries and candied sage.

The restaurant is small, modern, and minimalist, with accents of frosted glass, dark wood, and soft, starry lights. Its professional and attentive staff are careful to welcome and thank you at the door. One gets the feeling, whether sitting at the frenetic counter or at a more intimate table, that they’re in a neighborhood trattoria on some corner in New York. Or at least as close as Austin has gotten yet.

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