Vespaio may not be the flashy new kid on the block anymore, but it does earn its reputation as one of the best upmarket Italian experiences in the city. It’s an obvious date-night choice, given its location on the superhot South Congress strip. It’s enough to have a drink at the long, attractive bar; the mostly Italian wine list is pretty solidly chosen, although it’s barely changed in years, even as more exciting Italians have become available nearby. We suppose the same could be said for the menu, which plays it safer than it needs to, given its status.

Among the strong points here are hand-formed pansotti filled with butternut squash; they’re in a sage brown butter that elsewhere is too sweet, but is here ideally balanced. Wagyu beef carpaccio (for once, someone knows how to treat a Wagyu, which is a total waste to cook) is beautifully rendered, with a slight crunch from fried capers and the much-needed bitterness of arugula and radicchio. We are longtime fans of the city’s best lasagne, made with the real Emilian recipe that integrates a veal-and-pork Bolognese and béchamel. Not as authentic is a carbonara that adds cream sauce, rather than allowing the heat from the noodles to emulsify the egg yolk, and shaved cheese into its own sauce; this one’s a little heavy and salty, as a result. Desserts are fantastic; one of those and a digestif in this well-appointed and lively space is still about as romantic as Austin gets.