The less stylish, casual Vespaio Enoteca shares a kitchen with Vespaio, but not a menu; and while the latter can sometimes disappoint with its fussier Italian-American creations, the simpler Enoteca hews closer to its strengths: al-dente pasta with a variety of delicious, comforting sauces; a rotating roster of outstanding panini (of which we’re totally in love with the pork-meatball and mozzarella versions); and world-class fried snacks, from calamari to supplì (fried risotto balls filled with melted fontina) to some of Austin’s best french fries. This food’s tighter and more consistent than Vespaio’s, thus the higher food rating.

Like those next door, these wood-fired pizza crusts don’t seem as thin or delicately seared as they once were. While waiting for a table—which you almost certainly will—peruse the deli case of cheeses, salumi, pâtés, and marinated salads, mostly made on site, and all available to take out. You can also order many of these as antipasti, among which succulent pork rillettes and the dependable beet and orange salad with fennel are superb. Also, this is one of our favorite spots for Sunday brunch, where we prefer to sit at the calmer counter, or people-watch on the streetside patio, rather than squeeze into the table jam inside. Expect expertly poached eggs, and a basket of breads that includes outstanding mini croissants, served with Nutella and marmalade. The simpler things really are best.