Alert: This is not about the Brick Oven on 35th Street, which is unrelated to the other three Brick Oven locations. (See “Brick Oven on 35th” for the review of that establishment.)

These Brick Ovens make a mighty fine thin-crust pizza, and have since long before Austin ever heard of pizzaioli and VPN certifications. The restaurant calls it “European style,” referring to the fact that it’s fired in wood-burning ovens that cook at nearly 700 degrees (the lower end of the Neapolitan spectrum). There’s a wide assortment of fresh toppings, like great fresh spinach, and pizza is even available by the humongous slice. The menu also has a selection of salads, calzones, and pastas, but these are mere distractions of the Olive Garden variety. Desserts are fine; moist, spongy tiramisù has a nice espresso flavor, but an unnecessary chocolate sauce.

Longhorns fans pack the homey, wood-and-stone Red River store after a game (it’s within walking distance of the stadium), while those with gluten allergies appreciate the Brodie location’s full gluten-free menu. The wine list is full of boring mass-produced non-Italians that deserve neither their “value” pricetag ($12 a glass) nor their “premium select” one ($18). Come on, “premium select”? It sounds like gasoline. Much of it tastes like gasoline, for that matter. Stick to a pitcher of Fireman’s Four, which goes better with pizza, anyway.