No restaurant better complements a breezy Clarksville afternoon than this cozy, casual bistro. Its menus change seasonally and often use local goods, but they don’t boast this point; rather, there’s a homey sincerity to this place that underplays just how good it is. At night, it’s warm and buzzing with life, the wood-fired oven turning out dish after dish, including small pizzas with flavorful crusts. Cipollina also boasts (but doesn’t) one of the finest short wine lists in town, a beautifully edited array of small-production, under-$50 wines with real character and outstanding food-pairing capabilities. Espressos are expertly pulled, and even the few beers are solidly chosen. Care just seeps into every aspect of the place.

Olive oil-poached tuna is lovely, the delicate and yet aromatically robust example of this antipasti classic; plump mussels come in a properly slurpable broth; proteins are usually reliably cooked, and plated either heartily (in colder months) or refreshingly (in hotter times). Wood-fired quail is one of those dishes to which no one country can lay claim, but we love this Med-Tex treatment, one time coming lightly bathed in peppery harissa, and served with citric couscous and earthy collards. Homemade charcuterie is terrific, including a bacon that does its finest work on a pizza with apple, Gorgonzola, and arugula. Simple joys like these are what this charming corner’s all about.