What can we say? On a good day, Primizie is fresh and flavorful, with a few flubs here and there. But on a bad day, it’s inedible. And the good and bad days are split pretty evenly.

Primizie offers a separate menu for locally sourced, organic ingredients, which is commendable (if a little cumbersome). But the inconsistency is hard to take. One night, too much butter, salt, and cream in our braised rabbit penne obliterated the delicate flavors of the English peas, green beans, and fava. On another night, it was sauced to perfection. We’ve had the best tagliatelle Bolognese in recent memory, and a few days later, had another that was too salty, with soggy, overcooked noodles. Mass confusion and hysteria abound!

The restaurant’s ubiquitous homemade flatbread is like Marlon Brando: capable of filling many roles even when it’s not a good idea. As pizza crust, it’s crispy on the edges and foldable (although ingredients on pizzas are not evenly dispersed). As “homemade ravioli,” it’s abused into chewy, thick pita pockets—sort of like an ill-fated hybrid between ravioli and miniature calzoni. As sandwich bread, it’s gummy, but with delicious insides (try the local mozzarella, roasted bell peppers, and crimini mushrooms). Oh yes, and it’s quite good as chips.

Primizie is elegant and casual, a warmly lit but coldly decorated cafeteria that has counter service at lunch and not much better service for dinner (albeit candlelit and a lot more enjoyable). Outside seating gives a lovely view of the gentrified chic that is East 11th, if you can stand the tungsten Wal-Mart lighting.

The wine list has some bizarre New World choices (Bong Bong Shiraz) that you should steer clear of in favor of the Italians, which err on the side of personality. Pastries seem to be a strong point here, with an almond and pignoli cookie that kills. We are totally into the local cheeses and produce and fish; we salute the cutting-edge East Austin location; and we enjoy ourselves at dinnertime. But until this kitchen works out its severe schizophrenia, Primizie remains a gamble.