“What the Fearless Critic books and apps have that UrbanSpoon and Yelp don’t is a complete lack of bullshit.”
“I’ve spent years driving around with Zagat...but I think I’ll replace it with this Fearless Critic guide.”
–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
7.6
8.5
$120
Steakhouse, Modern
Upmarket restaurant

Hours
Sun–Thu 5:00pm–10:00pm
Fri–Sat 5:00pm–11:00pm

Features Good wines
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

www.kirbyssteakhouse.com

North 1604
123 N. Loop 1604 E.
San Antonio, TX
(210) 404-2221
Kirby’s Prime Steakhouse
Better than most steak factories, Kirby’s (very) nearly justifies the (very) big bucks

Kirby’s atmosphere is art-glass opulent, service exceeds the local standard, and as the name implies, most of the steaks are prime beef: lavish, buttery, and full-bodied. The 7-oz.”Blue Ribbon Pepper Steak” (Blue Ribbon has no grading significance) is, however, a hedge on the expense-account extravagance of a 22-oz. cowboy-cut Prime ribeye, and it’s exquisitely tender and permeated with cracked pepper. A mighty veal chop and cedar-plank salmon are among the better non-beef choices. Pan-roasted sea bass served over lobster risotto we’re less sure of. The bass is thick and properly cooked, the risotto lush with lobster…but the combination does nothing for us. This clash of titans ends in a draw.

In the arena of appetizers and sides, Kirby’s kitchen both excels and comes up short. Pan-fried “Oysters Ladybird” can be soggy or perfectly crisp. Parmesan-crusted lollipop lamb chops are superbly flavorful and hardly need their accompanying vodka-laced marinara. Side dishes include a creamy, comforting mac and cheese and a mushroom risotto worth investigating. Potato sides, surprisingly, are a little lackluster in comparison.

Kirby’s wine list is almost obsessively focused on California cabs, but we’ve had a beautiful Gigondas, and the bar is especially well stocked with single-malts (also good with steak). “Homemade Chocolate Spice Cake” was selected to usher out one evening. Be warned that it is huge, delicious, and dripping with pecan-studded ganache.

Be the first to leave a comment…