Eh. What can we say about Fleming’s? It’s your slightly-above-average corporate-expense-account chain steakhouse. Traveling executives have come to know and trust it, ordering the same thing every time at every location, knowing there won’t be any deal-spoiling surprises. And this, ultimately, is what chains really provide us with: consistency nationwide.

Some consistency is tolerable in décor, and here it’s well-executed: they have good booths, large and comfortable, and there’s a nice bar area. Service is professional. A few sides are out of the steakhouse norm: chipotle cheddar macaroni and cheese; potatoes with jalapeños and cheddar cheese. They make for the sort of steak dinner we would have imagined as kids, unabashedly hitting all the pleasure points in one meal.

There’s an effort to market Fleming’s as a serious wine place, which is specious, given the dearth of truly worthy wines on the list (there are a few). But it’s the steak that defines the place. Fleming’s beef is decent, but it’s wet- not dry-aged. The chain also claims to undersell other steakhouses, and it’s true by a few dollars, but after a bottle of wine—which you wind up ordering at a place like this—what’s the difference between $88 and $94?