Grey Moss is a Brigadoon kind of place, springing to animated life on the occasion of periodic wine dinners and lapsing into somnolence in between. Mind you, their sleep-walk is better than many restaurants’ best days, but it does seem a shame to under-exploit a historic setting that routinely, and deservedly, wins “most-romantic” awards.

In benign weather, by all means sit outside under the oaks and within sniffing distance of the old well that has been converted into a grilling pit. (If it’s winter and romance is on the agenda, reserve a table at the fireplace indoors.) Recommended appetizers include quail stuffed with house-made beef chorizo and wild game sausages with fresh berry sauces. We have never found cause to complain about any of the steaks, all grilled over mesquite, but would be happy to eschew tradition in favor of sides other than the tired-and-true squash and sour cream potato. There’s always a certain risk in opting for the grilled “Best Fish Available,” but we’d be inclined to take it for variety’s sake. Besides, the exemplary wine list offers several bottles in “split” sizes, making split decisions easy to manage. Tradition should rule at dessert: have “Queen Nell’s Cake.”