The Bin is the second of five restaurants chef Jason Dady has opened since his auspicious debut in 2001; formatted around small plates and pegged to a 55 for $55 wine list (plus by-the-glass and other selections), it first seemed revolutionary for San Antonio.Then, of course, others picked up at least parts of the playlist.

Lunch is perhaps the weakest link, when service can be slow and attention to some dishes lax. But at dinner, the stars come out on the very pleasant patio and in the kitchen, and professionalism reigns. (If there’s a crowd, the noise level inside the converted cottage may be equally impressive.) Start with a seasonal plate of exquisite asparagus bisque or grilled asparagus topped with egg—or perhaps slow-cooked pork belly “tavern style.” Patatas bravas with two sauces are great with equally lusty wines; veal meatballs with cinammon and vanilla we find a little more problematic. Pizzas are primo, but anything from the wood-burning oven can usually be counted on—including the roasted shrimp, when available. Even Asian-influenced dishes such as the Thai shrimp curry are “just beautiful,” according to one contributor. The cheese selection is also excellent, but we feel obliged to suggest that $37 is a little steep for a sampling of five pieces, no matter how clever the accompaniments.

Dady managed to score a session at Spain’s elbulli before its closure, but instead of the expected appearance of foams and other sleights of hand, we have “classic Spanish paella” served family-style. What a relief.