The nay-sayers—and we were among them—feared that San Antonio would never cotton to a vera pizzeria napoletana, accustomed as we are to twofer specials and cheese-stuffed crusts. But there are lines out the door for lunch at Dough, and the party’s only truly over when the house-made mozzarella and burrata run out. We stand corrected—and frequently in line.

The oven, shipped over from Naples, turns out pretty much everything but the cheese and salads: the oak-roasted mushroom bruschetta, roasted olives, sausage, and peppers with grapes…some of the antipasti are getting pricey, but all are worth having. We tend to prefer our salad on pizza in the form of one with arugula, prosciutto, and truffle oil, but several composed of local greens are available. We also tend to prefer those pizzas that don’t rely too much on tomato sauce; it tends to make the crust soggy in the center. Hence, bring on the “Pork Love” with its obscene amounts of salume (make it more salacious by adding an egg) and others of its ilk. The tutto italiano wine list isn’t huge but it is also not knee-jerk, with wines from Puglia, Sicily, and even Sardinia among those featured.