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Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Casual restaurant

Sun–Thu 11:00am–10:00pm
Fri–Sat 11:00am–11:00pm

Features Date-friendly, outdoor dining, Wi-Fi
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted


Uptown Central
255 E. Basse Rd.
San Antonio, TX
(210) 832-0300
Expect country-club coifs and businessmen’s banter; the food’s less pushy

The seasonal décor (pick your season) will be in place, the joint will be jumpin’ with the posh and the political (and maybe a few with perambulators), the service will initially seem swift (we all know about the disappearing waiter syndrome at check time)…there’s a lot of surface gloss at this outpost of a CA chain. The promise of local sourcing is another hook. No, a bomb is not about to drop.

In fact, we have often been pleased with the pollo alla mattone, a locally raised “all-natural” chicken grilled under a brick, and think positively about the ravioli alla limone with a lemon cream sauce. That pastas are available in small and large portions is also appreciated—making them appropriate as a first course and us feel more Italian. True, there’s nothing trailblazing about an appetizer of baked goat cheese with olives, tomato “crudo,” and basil, but it is what it’s supposed to be, and there are enough crostini for a change.

A little timidity in seasoning has been detected in dishes such as the “tagliatelle” di zucchini, however. The presumed virtue of shaved squash subbing for pasta exerts its pull, the grilled pollo is fine, the pine nuts crunchy…the sugo rosso just needs more punch to go beyond gloss. The wine list isn’t trailblazing either, but it’s generally up to the task; the bar is for both drinking and dishing.

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