Go Hyang Jib, understandably better known as Korean BBQ House, seemed for a time to be coasting on the laurels of its previous owner—and menus still mention old awards. But solid recent performance suggests GHJ is coming into its own. We note that the banchan may not be as inventive as earlier (the constellation of little dishes that accompanies most meals is delightful), but they are surely good enough to allow one to get the required fix of crunchy, pickled daikon or briny, slivered cabbage.

Simple starters such as yaki mandu come across well, in fact; at once tender and crusty, these potsticker packets are filled with a delicate pork mixture and cry out for dipping or drizzling. Kimchi soup arrives bubbling in an iron pot and brimming with pork, tofu, and the sour-hot pickled cabbage. Pork bulgogi, however, though generously portioned and almost scarily tender, is merely good, lacking the punch expected from an advertised “hot pepper sauce.”

There is little in the way of atmosphere at Go Hyang Jib; a large flatscreen tuned to the game du jour flickers mindlessly at all hours. But service adds the warmth otherwise missing.