Cullum’s Attaboy’s Airstream trailer is finally open after months of building interest on Facebook. In addition to the trailer, they’ve assumed control of the kitchen at Tucker’s Kozy Korner, the eastside oldie where the Airstream is parked, off duty, when it’s not at late-night bars on the N. St. Mary’s strip (Tuesday) or upper Broadway (Wednesday through Saturday). The menu for both is the same, and it’s Spartan. You order a burger and get a choice of regular or sweet potato fries. This will run you $9 or $10. Though not insanely high for food in general, it is pushing the upper limit for a burger from a trailer, and we’re curious to see how San Antonio responds. Cullum was part of the now-defunct Bunsen Burgers, and though that place wasn’t around long, it made some of the city’s best beef between a bun.
The approach to the primary product is creative: handmade, flax-seeded buns; a good selection of cheeses; and, almost always with their burger of the day, something extra—fried eggs, wide-cut bacon, and our favorite, boudin sausage. Early buzz was strong, but on our first visit the quality was not consistent. Now with more time under their belt, the wrinkles seem to be ironed out. The burgers are rich, hearty, and always dripping with something good—say a cayenne ranch dressing. The sweet potato fries have a crunchy cornstarch coating and are great as well. And if something seems to be lacking to take the experience to absolute perfection, we won’t let perfection be the enemy of the very good. Not us.
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