There are some places that are truly only-in-Texas, and this is one of them. During lunch hours, you may see a freight train stop across from this genial café, so the conductor can run in for a burger. You’ll find the thick half-pounders to be worth stopping for, too. They are among the best in the city.

The bean burger is a fairly traditional version of this local classic, with plenty of refrieds, Fritos, cheddar and onions piled on top of that perfectly juicy patty. The difference is the addition of jalapeño slices to give it a fresh kick. Enjoy this in a homey dining room filled with authentic memorabilia from gas stations, bread companies, sodas, banks, you name it. The centerpiece is a Wurlitzer jukebox that plays 45’s of oldies.

The rest of the lunch menu includes many an old-fashioned favorite, including ham and cheese, tuna salad, even PB&J. Don’t overlook another Alamo City creation, the Crispy Dog, a hot dog stuffed with cheese and rolled in a tortilla before being fried “to perfection.” It’s not just for kids, so channel your inner child and have at it. The fries are fine (with or without chili and cheese), but the crunchy onion rings are the real deal.

Friday and Saturday evenings (the only day for dinner) bring fried catfish and fried pickles to the menu. If you can resist a burger, the fish is a good bet with its crisp cornmeal batter. As for the pickles, they’re not on our must-have-before-we-die list, but feel free…