Here’s what Gourmet Burger Grill is not: a paean to old-style flat-and-floppy burgers; a kiddie playpen; a fast-food joint in sheep’s clothing.

Make that lamb’s clothing, as the lamb burger, itself a tad overdressed with spinach, roasted peppers, grilled onion, goat cheese, and basil aïoli, is just one of the offerings that distinguishes this place from the pack. We have also enjoyed the cooked-to-order, premium-priced “American Kobe” burger, the bison burger (with Bourbon barbecue sauce on the side), and (surprised the dickens out of us) the ground turkey burger—all despite a grind that’s a little too smooth and uniform. The buns are baked daily, and if they can come across as chewy, we prefer that to pasty any day. A good way to find favorites among the 14-burger selection is to order the sampler of five different mini burgers—though if the “Wellington Burger” with wild mushroom duxelles should beckon, you’ll simply have to take the plunge, preferably with the sweet potato fries that smoke the standard version.

GBG’s semi-sporty atmosphere, while not exactly posh, doesn’t scream chain, either (though there’s now a second unit), and there’s a modest selection of beer and wines by the glass. The burgers merit more.