The Friendly Spot name has resonance in King William/Southtown; it belonged to a late, lamented burger joint down the street. But this homage to good times past transcends the original in the ambition of its menu and the sheer simplicity of its outdoor setting shaded by pecan trees and set about with casual garden furniture. Grab a beer from the impressive list of imports and craft domestics and set a spell; you never know who might end up at your table.

As suits the setting—which includes a kid-friendly play area—menu options consist of small servings primarily focused on Mexican street cuisine. (Recently, and sadly if you ask us, items such as burgers and mac ’n’ cheese have crept in.) All of which makes for some interesting put-togethers—say a lusty, beer-based michelada with a single shrimp draped over the rim paired to a chicken mole tamal wrapped in banana leaves. Another leaf-wrapped tamal with shrimp and spinach does contain cream cheese, but as it works, much is forgiven. Some selections such as the taquito of Yucatecan pescado tikin xic may be entirely too precious, but tastes are usually spot-on even when portions are stingy.