Beto’s made the city safe for empanadas in an earlier, classier, location. The empanadas continue to uphold the debut standards; they are well-stuffed and well-seasoned. We especially like the chicken poblano and the calabacita con puerco, but have also been seduced by “La Judy Brazilena” with black beans, rice, and sausage. Okay, the “flaky” pastry is sometimes less than totally thus, but the packets are at least baked, not fried. Fish tacos, wherein the fish is also not fried but grilled, are another plus, and the quesadillas are served in housemade corn tortillas.

But we do note with sadness that burgers have been added to the menu. They may be perfectly acceptable when topped with Beto’s effusive poblano sauce (it also caps the earthy black bean soup) and accompanied by an order of crisp and creamy yuca fries. But really…instead, have an utterly decadent sweet empanada with banana, leche quemada, and pecans and contemplate the dumbing-down of cuisine, Latin and otherwise.

You might also ponder the possibility that Beto’s needs an update both indoors and in the laid-back back yard. Unlike the Americanization of the menu with burgers, the atmosphere may be trending a little too lax.