For every ka-ching recognizing an order of “classics from over 40 years,” there’s likely an equal arrgh on the part of capo Joe Cosniac—and with good reason. His newest outpost is about more than peddling old favorites. Claimed one contributor, “It just keeps getting better and better. The chef concentrates on combining Italian dishes with local ingredients, and for the most part, all works very well. The not-too-tricked-up fish dishes are excellent, and there’s a wide range of choices—including great steaks.”

Our experiences with chef Clark McDaniel have been equally rewarding—also for the most part. Many favorites have expired, but shells stuffed with veal, spinach, and portobello, all in a lusty tomato sauce, endure—as one of the best pasta dishes of recent memory. We stand guilty of indecent mopping with excellent, crusty bread. The roast chicken, done in a steam-injected German oven, changes its garb occasionally, but is unfailingly moist and usually truffle-accented. Pizzas are of the prosciutto-and-arugula sort, but work with a wine list that’s enhanced by knowledgeable servers.

We admit to finding the main dining space a tad pompous, but the limestone-girt patio is altogether pleasant of a balmy eve, even when service is slow. Take a star chart, order more wine.