Legend has it that locals don’t frequent River Walk restaurants, and for the most part legend doesn’t lie—but there are exceptions, and one of them is Boudro’s, an uncompromising survivor on the tourist-trammeled waterway. Locals can sneak in the back door, it’s true, but they also appreciate the thoughtful wine list and the attention of the long-time waitstaff. Tables under the “potato chip” umbrellas at water’s edge are coveted by some, but a retreat into the womb-like interior is a more defensive move. Start with a soulful duck-and-sausage gumbo and go from there to almost any seafood dish. (We have always liked the wood-grilled fish fillet with spicy crawfish butter, for example, although the coconut shrimp with orange chili fails to thrill.) Mesquite-grilled quail, served with cheesy grits or more flashily flaunting wild mushrooms, can be counted on as well.

Yes, the place can get crowded, and waits are not uncommon. Compensate by indulging that secret yen for a magnificently magenta prickly pear frozen margarita—yes, frozen; this is one of the only times you’ll hear that advice from us.