The elevator that is essential to the “elevated cuisine” conceit of Silo rises through a copper-clad core at the 1604 location and opens into one of the city’s most appealing, contemporary dining spaces. It’s light and airy by day, subtly lit at night, and sets the stage for food that’s thoughtfully modern without resorting to tricks. Service supports the setting.

And now we think that the offspring 1604 kitchen, which was previously in the shadow of the original, has more than pulled even with the parent. A recent dinner experience included a slimmed-down Caesar salad with hearts of romaine, croutons (perhaps a tad too perfect), a parmesan “tuile” (mostly for show), and a refreshingly discreet amount of dressing—which is about all we can ask for in an era when tableside prep has all but disappeared from the scene. Yes, the pairing of duck confit with seared breast is becoming a cliché, but it’s done beautifully here, the contrast between rare and rendered much more than an exercise in virtuosity. The Kurobuta pork shank, for all its heft and tenderness, is a little sweet for some palates, however.

The wine list may stop short of sheer fabulosity (there’s nothing venerable and exquisite nor truly outré and exotic), but it will more than satisfy most diners (though we like to pair the duck with a Dogfish Head Ale from the aspirational beer list).

A new pastry chef is making her mark with the likes of a chocolate tart in a hazlenut crust. Yes, we can actually use the word “delicious.”