First off, y’all, it’s Shama GaOOsha. Next surprise: though this is a formulaic Brazilian steakhouse, the formula works. Third anomaly: we can’t believe we’re saying this, but we actually wish for a little more gaucho kitsch in the décor; it’s just a little too corporate for comfort.

As per usual, one is advised to visit the truly opulent salad bar first—and to keep one’s eyes in one’s head; there’s a lotta carne to come. (The salad bar can be had separately by vegetarians not unsettled by the specter of steer on spears.) Once you flip the card you’ve been given from its red to its green side, the costumed servers begin their ritual approach like so many picadores circling a wary bull. Leg of lamb, bottom sirloin, pork ribs, Prime sirloin…almost all should be moist, expertly cooked, and deeply flavorful. For the record, we like least anything wrapped in bacon or parmesan-crusted. Also for the record, the cumulative salt level by the end of the evening can get oppressive—but that’s what wine is for. The list is only as good as it has to be, but will supply a full-bodied Malbec in impressive glassware. Desserts are extra and can be skipped.