“What the Fearless Critic books and apps have that UrbanSpoon and Yelp don’t is a complete lack of bullshit.”
“I’ve spent years driving around with Zagat...but I think I’ll replace it with this Fearless Critic guide.”
–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
6.5
6.5
$65
French, German
Upmarket restaurant

Hours
Daily 11:00am–11:00pm

Features Date-friendly, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

www.lukesanantonio.com

Downtown
125 E. Houston St.
San Antonio, TX
(210) 227-5853
Lüke River Walk
Lüke’s good in the details but lacks in the larger picture

Lüke River Walk is the first outpost outside of Louisiana for New Orleans Chef John Besh’s culinary empire, and we guess we should be flattered. Yes, the restaurant’s French-German brasserie theme does evoke, however faintly, the Texas Hill Country, and there are claims of local ingredients, but initial experiences suggest there’s not yet any there here.

We can start with a setting inside a soulless, corporate hotel that squanders its relationship to the River Walk and offers little by way of Crescent City charm in return. The bar does provide a classic Sazerac, as it should, and is the source of excellent happy-hour Gulf oysters. The Express Lunch specials, served with soup, are a relative bargain, too. But with more complexity come issues of execution.

Louisiana crab bisque would seem to be a slam-dunk, and for lovers of roux-based soups it may be; we find it crabby enough but also floury and a little too suggestive of crab boil. Tuesday’s roast suckling pig starts out strong—and gets stronger. The succulent suckling is robed in a lusty cherry mustard sauce, bedded on full-flavored stewed greens and underpinned by a robust andouille cornbread. Each good, but enough already! We did want more house-made sauerkraut in an evening’s choucroute garni. The house bratwurst is killer, but bounty is a part of the traditional presentation. (The extensive beer list will provide a classic companion.) Yet we’re back to wanting to subtract from “Brendan’s Bread Pudding.” Too many too-sweet notes.

Comments (1)