Frederick Costa comes by his fusion bona fides legitimately, product of Paris and Vietnamese roots that he is. Politics must also be a part of his heritage, as the cautious inclusion of dishes such as Asian rare beef salad and “Frederick’s Mom’s Recipe of Caramelized Pork Short Ribs” hasn’t perturbed the, er, mature crowd that frequents his hush Alamo Heights salon. He even dallied with danger in a recent decorative and menu makeover. The result? More of the same, only a bit more restful in the décor department. And we were already snoozing…

As for the menu, any modifications have been minimal, the complaint that it doesn’t change enough still being germane. The elegantly prepared spring rolls continue to please, while a duck breast magret with curry jus (heavy, salty, reminiscent of take-out soy packets) and Hong Kong noodles (ramen noodles we had in college) coasted by on the canard’s, uh, ducktails. Norwegian salmon in rice paper is, sadly, shamed by its green curry lentil sidekick. But for all its lowbrow connotations, seared calf’s liver soars; even the polite but condescending servers would have to agree.

The wine list, BTW, also needs a makeover—a serious one, SVP.