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Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
6.0
6.5
$50
French
Casual restaurant

Hours
Mon–Thu 11:30am–2:30pm
Mon–Thu 5:00pm–10:00pm
Fri 11:30am–2:30pm
Fri 5:00pm–11:00pm
Sat 5:00pm–11:00pm
Sun 11:30am–3:00pm
Sun 5:00pm–9:00pm

Features Date-friendly, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, BYO
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

www.bistroatolmospark.com

Uptown Central
4331 McCullough Ave.
San Antonio, TX
(210) 826-0222
Olmos Park Bistro
Upstart Frenchmen invade upscale Olmos Park; an accent may not be enough

Olmos Park denizens seem to be at least giving the bistro a try—decked out in their dine-out best as befits an old-money enclave. The same crowd wasn’t enough to salvage the initial Italian operation in the same location, and we aren’t convinced that a change of accent will make a significant difference (we never liked the physical place, either). But you gotta hand it to zees Frenchmen; zey are charmant.

Charm is rarely enough, however, and the food will need to develop its own, mostly Gallic, appeal if the place is to survive. One recent meal was a riff on the theme of chewy. An appetizer order of clams steamed with Spanish chorizo featured defiantly al-dente mollusks, chewier sausage, and not enough broth to allow for the sopping that’s the real reason for this kind of dish. Following was an onglet (hanger steak) in a deft red wine and shallot sauce that couldn’t disguise meat that was almost jaw-poppingly tough.

Perhaps by way of compensation, a lamb tagine, served in the conical container that gives the dish its name, comes mushy, the spicing muddy. And steak tartar, an exercise in culinary virility if there ever was one, is limp and damp. We’re not quite sure how to characterize an Alsatian tart; the shell is filled with onions caramelized to a fault, and oddly topped with unmelted chunks of brie. Oysters are cheap, however, corn starch-coated fries are fantastic, and the flourless Belgian chocolate fondant is exquisite. Sounds like a combo to us.

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