The urge to escape the Sedan de Ville set may have motivated Frederick Costa when he opened Frederick’s Bistro across town from the Alamo Heights enclave served by Frederick’s, tout court. In any case, the demographic’s median age dropped by at least a decade, and the noise level rose by several decibels.

The sportier sibling has a low-light and paneled-wall gestalt all its own despite some genetic similarities in the menu: French country pâté and occasional Asian (and other) inflections, for example. The escargots de Bourgogne with Spanish chorizo are both terrific in their own right and worthy of much mopping of surviving sauce. And despite the ennui of contemplating yet another calamari dish, as served over Chinese noodles with a zingy-sweet chili sauce, this rendition is irresistible.

As so often happens, however, many main dishes lose focus. The Korobuta pork shank, one of many plates in a hit parade of cautious-contemporary cuisine that includes duck leg confit, is overwhelmed by the bounty on the plate. But as is also often the case, desserts redeem the day. Have the “Floating Island”—that’s an order. The wine list is disappointing, so one might as well indulge with more obvious calories.