We’re amused by the name—and tempted to play with it mercilessly. We’re also somewhat bemused by the menu roulette—from Asian fusion to sort-of–modern American and back to fairly French. Here’s what’s happening now. We don’t vouch for tomorrow.

Crab cakes can be almost any culture; add aïoli and they become vaguely Mediterranean. There’s little art to the presentation, but the cakes themselves are delicate and satisfyingly crabby—and the aïoli doesn’t overwhelm. A pasta of the day may be anything from fettuccini Alfredo to an earthy bowl of linguini carbonara with just enough bacon, asiago and egg to click. Equally casual is a house-ground brisket burger that’s well-flavored, accessorized with caramelized onion, cheese and bacon, and served with excellent fries. The croque madame with a classic egg on top has pleased in the past. The excellent rack of lamb, however, has been replaced by a lamb shank provençal. We make no claims. Desserts we do claim to like.

Service is pleasant and generally competent, but the place itself looks best at night when the dark furniture and framed mirrors make more of an impact—and the occasionally unkempt look of the entry isn’t as noticeable. But if you had expected to finish out your evening discussing the sorry state of world affairs in a darkened dining room, it’s best to take the party to the adjacent lounge. Can’t avoid the live-music action, might as well join it. Besides, the bar makes a mean Lemon Drop with agave nectar.