Hopdoddy’s like that diner in Back to the Future II, upon Marty’s 21st-century re-arrival. To a newcomer, the ordering system here might be equally disorienting (order in the back, then take a seat; or just sit at the bar and get fed quicker). The space is chilly and modern, but the fare hails back to Howdy-Doody times.

Like just about everything here, the ice cream’s homemade, so floats (made with Maine Root sodas) and milkshakes are thick and delicious—especially with a shot of liqueur in them. The adult-drink program’s puzzling: cocktails are made with in-house and quality mixers, but they’re all sweet; a tart margarita’s kickin’, though. The touted draft selection is nullified with gimmicky goblets and a gross-we-hate-beer, near-freezing temperature.

Best here is the bun, house-baked to a shiny dome of unsweetened, delicious fluffiness, and entirely up to the job. House-ground patties are thick and well done, and really more peppery than beefy. The overall working relationship between quality ingredients delivers, though. Aside from an off-tasting, mushy ahi burger, we haven’t had a dud combo yet, although the lamb patty works better with the strong chèvre, pesto, and mushrooms of a “Magic Mushroom.” The fries manage a uniform crispness and are well seasoned. Of course, it’s all better with a Bailey’s chocolate shake.