Like any good neighborhood bar, Billy’s on Burnet is highly attuned to the needs of its constituency. It’s ramshackle and dark, so you don’t have to dress nice or even shower before going, kids seem right at home amid the old arcade games, and a great deal of the food is vegetarian, which is nearly impossible to find at our other favorite dives. Weave through some well-used wooden tables to the back counter to peruse the chalkboards for daily food specials and local beer options from over two dozen taps.

Cheeseburgers are reliably enjoyable, with their third- or quarter-pound, gently seasoned patties and slightly sweet potato-bread buns. The “Ends,” named for a local punk band, comes with hot(-ish) sauce and blue cheese, but can—true to punk form—suffer from a copious application of both. Veggie Frito pie is pleasantly spicy and hearty. We’re not as keen on the slimy avocado Reuben, but this is the only place in town to get a decent veggie Philly “cheesesteak.” The fryer’s always on its game (until 11:15 pm, when we’re told the kitchen closes), spitting out crispy french fries; okra in a thick, crunchy batter; and fried green tomatoes with refreshing acidity beneath their crumbs.

If you can make the brief “happiest hour” (4–5pm weekdays), domestics are $1.50 and imports are just two bucks. Go ahead and bring a vegetarian.