As the burger enjoys a recent fetishizing among America’s food enthusiasts, Austin’s become deluged with gorgeous (or at least highly touted) versions. It seems someone’s constantly declaring the new best, but no longer do they declare it’s Hut’s. We hope Hut’s, which has been grilling away since 1939 (in its current location since 1969), goes unfazed by this turn of events. After all, it weathered the 1981 disastrous Memorial Day Flood that washed away nearly everything else on the block. And we love its stuck-in-time soda bar, old team pennants, and walls of photos, articles, longhorn and buffalo heads, and other bric-a-brac. Service can be slow, and there’s often a wait in the crowded entryway after games.

Surprisingly, this is one of the few places you can find Texas grass-fed beef burgers; there’s also a moist veggie burger, a blah chicken breast, and good ground buffalo. It’s all cooked pretty consistently to temperature, and combinations, even ones that raise eyebrows (sour cream?), are reliably pleasurable, especially with a side of chipotle mayonnaise. Skin-on french fries are limp, and not even liberal salting can resuscitate them. Better are the monstrous onion rings, with lots of cracked black pepper in the breading. Skip the mediocre other stuff on the menu, but do get a milkshake. Long live you, Hut’s—may you weather this flood, as well.