This is fast food that clearly watched Food Inc.; it puts hormone-and-antibiotic-free Texas beef and chicken into classic drive-thru-style burgers. The design winks at mid-century Americana as much as the thin-style patties do; the original sports a walk-up window and a little patio with picnic tables, but most people here never leave their cars (and the line is often long). The newer location has a Jetsons-ish appeal, and it’s as fun to dine inside among succulent gardens as it is on the dog-and kid-friendly patio. Also, we don’t know what it is, but the burgers coming out of this location are somehow even better.

One of these burgers might be too small for some appetites; we recommend two, or the “Double.” Either way, the “special sauce” is not heavy, but still mayo-licious, and you can (and should) ask for it with pickles, jalapeños, and/or grilled onions. There’s also a terrific veggie burger, in which we taste black beans and mushrooms that are so earthy that we don’t miss meat at all. Fries are thin and have that oily, aggressively seasoned, sometimes squishy/sometimes crisp thing that works so well for McDonald’s. Shakes are thick, and the vanilla is superior to the fake-syrupy chocolate.

The North Lamar store now opens early for breakfast, which includes an awesome (and fast-food-cheap) sausage sandwich and fresh-fried potatoes, the origins of which we’re thankful not to have to worry about.