Blue Star Cafeteria tries to evoke the retro-Americana food movement favored by the hip, but its pastel retro-Americana décor seems instead to attract those in danger of breaking one.

Nevertheless, we’re big fans of the diner-era burger, with its thin patty and phenomenal bun. We also love a grilled four-cheese sandwich with Dijon mustard and apple chutney; its tinge of Gruyère is wonderfully highbrow for such a lowbrow treat. And we’ve enjoyed a hunk of meatloaf lacquered with dark, shiny gravy and served with (bland) mashed potatoes and hefty stalks of locally farmed broccoli. The house salad with cranberries is great, but only if you add chicken, goat cheese, and balsamic vinaigrette. Pizzas with high-concept ingredients like rosemary, scallions, and roasted-garlic oil suffer from a dissociation between bland, crackery crust, congealing cheese, and dry grated parmesan. And brunch is just...okay

Blue Star’s appeal seems to have cooled as newer, more committed places of this type open; you can’t so easily impress people anymore with truck-stop counters sporting Gaggia espresso machines, or good-effort wines and beers where soda fountains should be. But the neighborhood loves its easiness, and everyone’s got a favorite here. And there’s pie. People love pie, no matter their age.