Fion Wine Pub’s two locations are in suburban areas that are more gated than geeky, yet there’s an impressive beverage program. The wine selection (in the several hundreds) isn’t necessarily well edited or even principled, but there are way more interesting bottles than at the surrounding “fine” grocery stores. You may take these to go, but should you dine in, you enjoy barely-above-retail markups. Even better is the beer program, especially at Bee Cave, where there are nearly 50 taps, including treasures like Gulden Draak, Chimay white, and local oatmeal stouts and porters rarely found on draft, and hundreds of bottles. Totally kicking ass all over the mini-marts, Fion lets you create your own six-pack from all those bottles for less than a ten spot. Daily happy hour specials draw a crowd in the warm lighting, and flat-screen TVs show the game of the moment.

There’s nothing particularly creative or even stunning about this food; it’s simple, but well executed. Atlantic salmon is cooked ideally, just before the flaking point, but with crispy seared edges. Pork chops are juicy and flavorful, and a terrific-quality beef tenderloin is cooked exactly to temperature. At two-thirds the price of most others in town, this steak deserves a salute. Finish with a board of excellent imported cheeses and a cigar from the shop’s extensive selection.