This is the other teeny eatery in the Korean shopping center on Lamar—the one not in a grocery store. It’s also great, but in a totally different way. It advertises a bibimbap buffet, but this isn’t its best work. Unlike its more soupcentric neighbors Han Yang and New Oriental, BBgo is great for large groups: a semi-private room fits 10-20, and it’s BYO, so each person averages $12-15 for really delicious food and gracious service.

Order: pork belly slices brought with a portable grill and a mix of chilies, sesame oil, onions, garlic, and salt. Seafood pajeon delightfully studded with leek, squid, scallop, and plump shrimp. Napa cabbage wraps with boiled pork, oysters, and kimchi. (Hint: ask for extra cabbage.) It’s fatty and funky and surprising; better with a sliver of garlic. Fried chicken is a bit dry and heavily coated; you can better satisfy the need for red-pepper heat with the nuclear sweet rice cakes. Crosscut galbi have a great bitter-fat grill flavor. But our panel favorite here is kimchi caviar rice, teeming with popping roe, and crisping up on the sizzling sides of the hot stone bowl.

There’s allegedly sea squirt, too, which they seem to always be out of. We gotta hand it to them—nothing like the promise of unattainable sea squirt to get you really addicted to a place.