Look for Austin Karaoke, and swivel to the right. Yes, in there; through the Han Yang grocery, which smells somewhat strongly of innards, is a bare-bones little café with blank walls and a smattering of cheap tables and chairs. Manna (its name, as translated from the Korean out front), closes at 8pm, so don’t expect to sit down to a leisurely dinner; most people come for lunch or get take-out (which we don’t recommend, as this stuff doesn’t travel well). Your hand won’t be held while you order at the counter—fortunately, the overhead menu helps somewhat, but a love of the gamble is required if you’re new to Korean. Fear not, there’s nothing bad here. Self-service banchan is much skimpier than at more formal eateries, often just sesame-oiled soybean sprouts, good kimchi, and spiced bitter melon.

Bibimbap, the rice-bowl standby, is great, but stews are the strongest thing here. Doenjang jjigae, a spicy stew of fermented soybean paste, tofu, chili, and vegetables, is the best version in Austin, the heat slightly more developed than it is elsewhere. Also delicious is gamja tang, with meltingly tender pork bone, potatoes, and cabbage. Barbecued meats are less the point—there’s decent galbi and less-than-decent bulgogi. For those, and better noodle soups, head catty-corner to New Oriental; but for superior stew, you’ve found the place.