Although the old Vegas-y neon sign is gone (boo), the long-running Ichiban is still a retro looker, with a stylized blue roof and river-scaped courtyard complete with koi. Inside, there’s a sushi bar, a dining room decorated with Japanese prints and gongs, and an aquarium, ringed by nearly private Japanese-style dining areas complete with tatami lanterns, mats to sit on, and shoe shelves.

The menu features pictures and English descriptions to help you through. Service is friendly and very helpful, so don’t be shy if you have any questions. There are a variety of combination plates, like the makunouchi, served in compartmentalized lacquered trays.

The sushi has improved a lot lately—not enough to make it a destination exactly, but it’s a more reliable bet for discerning locals. Most nigiri is fine, although uni is still served too cold (ideally uni is served just above room temperature, so the buttermilky flavors can stand out). Tempura is better and rolls stick together, a sign that perhaps better sushi rice has found its way to the line. For Korean, we still recommend heading to the triangle at Lamar and Airport—this one’s high priced and underwhelming; even often-blameless bulgogi has come oddly ferrous-tasting. But Allandale/Crestview sushi lovers, rejoice.