Mizu’s hanging off the side of a hill facing a rolling terrain of juniper, blue sky, and limestone—so who even cares what it’s serving? Fortunately, there are some truly decent items here, and the cost of the view’s added right in for your convenience. We certainly prefer it to that of Mizu’s interior, which consists of 13 flatscreen TVs, two pool tables, a noisy dining room, and comment-provoking lighting fixtures.

This is not so much a Japanese restaurant as it is a flashy steakhouse with a Japanese fetish (or at least a fetish for money). You do have to navigate a menu full of over-the-top combinations with needlessly silly names, like “What the Foie?” (foie gras paired with buttery escolar). Maguro (red tuna) with apple and goat cheese does a fair imitation of Uchi’s (which is, itself, an imitation of another kitchen’s dish), but its fried leeks and garlic push it too far. In fact, you can’t really rely on the kitchen to restrain itself, so order items with fewer ingredients: high-quality nigiri, the more classic rolls, and expertly grilled steaks.

The wine list’s got some great bottles for pairing with this type of cuisine, but you’ll have to root them out from under the deluge of boring Napa Cabs-’n’-Chards. The sake list, while less of a minefield, is marked up beyond any other in the city. Remember: view premium.