Tomo is quite a happy surprise, way up here in the ’burbs. It serves top-notch fish at slightly lower prices than either Uchi or Musashino. Despite its strip-mall profile, Tomo has some Vegas flash and flare: glowing jellyfish in a tank at the door, the sleek bar of resin and river rocks, velvet eggplant booths, and chic wall art. Some low-brow maneuvers like “Ladies’ Night” also contribute to a sin-city silliness, as do condescending descriptions on the otherwise well-chosen and reasonably priced sake list. The grape wines are less worthy—sushi-friendly varietals like Gewürztraminer mean well, but there are much better producers to be had.

Be sure to check out the specials board; although all the fish at Tomo is high quality (flown in Mondays and Thursdays, we’re told), the pieces listed there are usually the best—be sure to check with your waiter about price, though. Some classic Nobu dishes that everyone seems to carry, such as miso-marinated black cod, are also here, and presentations are often stunning. Rolls are better than usual; they’re not too mushy or over-syrupy, but opt for the more traditional maki, like natto (fermented soybeans) and ume shiso (Japanese plum), if you want something other than mayonnaise-y crunch. There’s plenty of that American flavor here, but if you want it, exemplary Japanese too.