Beluga doesn’t succumb to flashy fusions between traditional Japanese sashimi and trendy Euro ingredients. Rather, it makes sensible tweaks with restraint—some of these may not win any awards, but are delicious. The staff’s apparent favorite is a sushi version of a jalapeño popper: a chile stuffed with cream cheese, yellowtail, and rice, then deep fried in a remarkably delicate manner (even if the subtle yellowtail is lost amidst all the other flavors).

Just make sure you order the nigiri—Beluga’s fish tastes fresh and the rice is well vinegared and ideal; it’s actually some of the best in town. There are also rarer fishes here, like anago (the more angel’s-food side of eel) and toothy conch. The uni is wonderfully buttermilky and custardy, and served not too cold.

Lunch is popular, and at happy hour, the bar turns into a big Dell hangout; maybe not so surprising, given the great mood lighting. The tiled floors and white ceilings might remind you that you’re in a strip mall, but the effect is offset by wavy lines, recessed lighting, hanging lamps, and trance music. Forget the mini-mart wines and stick to beer and a great, reasonably priced sake selection (not to be confused with their “saketinis,” which can be sticky-sweet, but less intoxicating than real cocktails). And who knows, you might even score a Dellionaire of your own.