ESK’s second trailer is just down the street, at The Grackle, a former Mexican dive bar that’s been commandeered by ’stached bartenders and their jukebox full of Serge Gainsbourg. It’s cozy and dark, with a decent selection of Bourbon and several taps of Brits and American micros. You can use cards in the bar, but the trailer’s cash only, with dishes averaging $7 a pop; at press time, there were only about eight of these, all served in paper baskets with excellent-quality rice made umami-riffic with bonito flakes and scallions.

Whereas the ESK at Liberty is decidedly Southeast Asian, these are Japanese in influence or origin (aside from a spectacularly spicy kimchi used to good effect in several dishes). Tare, a traditional yaki sauce, is delicious on pork ribs, pork belly, and chicken thighs. Each dish—as well as an incredible eggplant with restrained sweet miso; and a trio of oniony, buttery mushrooms—arrives in its unique way at a recurring harmony between char, sweetness, salt, and spice. (Remember to mix up your chicken dish to get Kewpie mayonnaise and pickled cabbage in every bite.) The only dud here is a tongue-in-cheek ramen, in which a bowl of Shin Ramyun is prepared and added to boiled egg, pork belly, and a homemade broth that’s overwhelmed by the seasoning packet. It’s a move that’s beneath this mobile kitchen’s talents. And those are epic.