The Chinatown shopping center on North Lamar has become home to some very good Asian restaurants (and some not so good), and this Korean entry has become one of the plaza’s strongest lures. Austinites are positively charmed by the women who run the place, who move from table to table making sure everyone is happy, referring to diners as “hon” and “sweetie” like a Korean version of Flo from Mel’s Diner. They might slide a dish of kimchi towards you and point at your bowl of seolleongtang, nodding encouragingly, Like Korean people do. Look, too, for the camouflage Converse sneakers.

A flat-screen TV plays American cable programming, such as the History Channel, which is often being watched by an older man sitting by the register. Now and then, he goes for a smoke out back, and the smell wafts in, mingling with aromas of marrowy beef broth, sizzling pork, and bright, pickled vegetables. There’s something here that’s akin to being in your grandparents’ house, whatever your cultural heritage. And the prices are totally in keeping with the generous vibe. A heaping portion of bulgogi will come with no fewer than 10 different bowls of banchan, all for less than $10. As soon as one is empty, the staff offers to refill it for you. Each is a note of sweet, spicy, umami, bitter, or sour, and taken in certain combinations, they sing a complicated harmony.

Grilled items are the restaurant’s strongest suit, tender and charred with caramelized bits and spices. Milky-white seolleongtang has beef buttery from a long cooking with bones, but it is bland on its own. Add kimchi, radishes, and salt and you have one comforting hangover cure. Still, we prefer the spicy jjigae stew of soft tofu, toothsome squid, and plump, good-funky mussels—it opens up the sinuses without burning the tongue or obscuring the oceanic flavors. Seafood pajeon is also good, the pancake thick and loaded with scallops and squid and scallions (oh my!).

There are some Southeast Asian beers in the cooler to wash it all down, but if you bring a bottle of wine and a smile, the gals are certain to oblige you (just don’t expect stemware). Korean Grill’s website reads:

In old times, having meals was the most important thing for a Korean. In Korea, people still asks each other “Have you had lunch (or dinner)?” instead of “How are you?”

Even better, here it’s: “Have you had lunch, hon?”

I recommended this restaurant to the Fearless critic a few months ago and I'm glad you folks picked up on it. I'm the guy who mentioned the Converse sneakers. I'm thrilled you're spreading the word on the fabulous Korean Grill. I'm from New York City and have spent many nights in Koreatown eating delicious food. Korean Grill could hold it's own in the Big Apple. Sadly, I am told that Austin ordinances don't allow for grilling over charcoal. Too bad. In the meantime, The Korean Grill is the next best thing to a real fire grill. And those women running the joint are the bomb.

Marc Campbell - 2010-01-27 01:43

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