Hat Creek, like P. Terry’s, boasts “all-natural” beef, but from a different Texas-based company (P. Terry’s uses Nolan Ryan’s beef; this one Premium Gold Angus). Both provide Angus cattle never fed hormones or antibiotics. Neither’s beef is grass fed, thickly cut, or particularly terrific. The Hat Creek menu, like P. Terry’s, offers only a double or single patty option, a turkey (as opposed to chicken) substitute, fries, and some additions. It does boast a wider selection of additions, enabling you to have a mushroom-swiss-bacon burger, or a cheddar-jalapeño one.

But we’re not fans of the patty here, even when doubled up as a “Big Hat.” It’s rubbery and oddly strong on the black pepper. The ingredients aren’t well secured, so if you like those mushrooms, you’d better be prepared to eat them off your lap. The fries are good and potato-y, but need salt. Still, if you’re in the area, or you come upon a truck at the UT game, you could probably do worse.

We do appreciate that Hat Creek has kept the famous Arby’s ten-gallon hat alive, a silhouette that fits the new tenant suspiciously well. But the shoes of quality-ingredient burgers are worn by increasingly many. And those are a little harder to fill.